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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.